Leave Mexico City with the certainty of a living, vibrant, bold, rich and unapologetic sight kitchen, as befits a discipline that newly awakened to life. All or almost anything goes when boiled as kitchens overlook a new time. There naivete, search and often bewilderment. strengths while overlook the contradictions are built, while imperfection and innocence are shown as values to consider. It is the evocative time of the kitchens that are quoted on the rise. It is also the time of uncertainties and paradoxes that assail me in one of three dining rooms I visit.
The last trip requires me to become aware of the phenomenon of multiplication restaurant and living migratory movement Mexican cuisines. Almost each of the references seem to have in this city that renews every morning their culinary allegiances, is related to a particular phenomenon in two ways. On the one hand, the landing of cooks in the dining outskirts of the capital and on the other the multiplication of the already established business.
The migratory movement is impressive. As if no kitchen there until not shown in the capital, professionals who come in Oaxaca, Durango, San Miguel de Allende or Ensenada have taken to living the capital adventure, often in need of public recognition that the distance denied. Thomas Bermudez is one of them. He has successfully moved Dozen, the business that brought him fame in Guadalajara, Colonia Roma (Alvaro Obregon 31), and the clientele was piled up against the door. Success is more than deserved. A few blocks away Diego Hernandez tries Kitchen Conchita (Alvaro Obregon 151) with very different results. Responsible for the good time Heart of Earth (Ensenada) does not seem to master the essential keys to make a success of their new venture; embargaba sadness local and took possession of the kitchen on my last visit. Between each other walk other chefs who live embarked on the airlift, as Alejandro Ruiz, halfway between Casa Oaxaca (Oaxaca) and Guzina Oaxaca in Polanco (Presidente Masaryk 513), and some with intermediate routes such as Jose Manuel Bathrooms the chef of La Pitiona (Oaxaca), reached Mexico City as responsible for the design of Chapulín, the restaurant irregular Hotel Presidente Intercontinental.
If cooks provinces have the capital and the dream destination, the chefs of Mexico City live multiplication phenomenon from the perspective of expansion. That seems to be the watchword in a market that continues to grow, regardless of the consequences it may have less consolidated kitchens or most in need of work and reflection. Elena Reygadas has gone well bet Bakery Rosetta -spectacular repostero- work and I have to see the result of Lardo, in Condesa, although both come at a time when the kitchen Rosetta, the business part of all, he lives in a crossroads that demands exclusive attention. When growth is founded not on solid foundations it ends up affecting the entire fabric. The same goes Jair Tellez, who has become Merotoro in one of the restaurants of worship in the city. The concept is so consolidated that there seems no distraction possible with the new adventure, although Merotoro and dishes are not eternal and like any other model of success thanks always some movement.
Large also they multiply. Enrique Olvera do -after Eno, around the corner from Pujol, get burgers and self Burns- Mr Jorge Vallejo (pigweed), promoter of Fonda Fina, a successful project and yet more culinary attention needed from which it receives.
The multiplication is not a minor issue. While some resort to it looking for revenue to help balance the balance of the mother house, others pursue a recognition that find it elusive. Along the way they are becoming more vulnerable day